FAQ

TIRE ??s:


1.  HOW ARE YOUR TIRES MEASURED? REAL WORLD WIDTH?

WITH CALIPERS - WE TRY OUR HARDEST TO GIVE YOU AN ACCURATE IDEA OF WHAT OUR TIRES WILL MEASURE OUT AT SO YOU CAN BE SURE THEY FIT BEFORE PURCHASING. THAT BEING SAID, THERE ARE SEVERAL FACTORS THAT COME INTO PLAY, THUS THE ?? ON OUR CASING LABELS.  RIM INNER DIMENSION, AIR PRESSURE, AND CASING TYPE ALL PLAY A ROLE.
 IN ADDITION, THE INDUSTRY STANDARD AS WELL AS OUR FACTORY’S STANDARDS ALLOW 2MM TOLERANCE ON EITHER SIDE OF THE NOTED SIZE DUE TO UNCONTROLLABLE VARIABLES- (BELIEVE IT OR NOT, PARTS OF THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS ARE ACTUALLY VERY MUCH STILL DONE BY HAND) SO IT’S POSSIBLE THE TIRE COULD START AT 49MM OR 50MM AND STRETCH, THOUGH WE’VE YET TO SEE A NEW TIRE MEASURE THAT WIDE WHEN MOUNTED ON AN APPROPRIATE RIM.
ANOTHER THING TO CONSIDER IS OUR RACE CASING GENERALLY RUNS A LITTLE WIDER THAN THE JFF WHICH IS A LITTLE WIDER THAN OUR ROBUSTO- SINCE THE CASING OF OUR RACE IS SO LIGHT AND FLEXIBLE IT USUALLY EXPANDS A TINY BIT MORE DURING VULCANIZATION YIELDING A SLIGHTLY WIDER TIRE.  WE’RE TALKING .5 - 1MM USUALLY.  SO VERY SMALL, AND AGAIN IT CAN VARY SINCE THEY’RE HANDMADE.  IF WIDTH IS A CONCERN AND MILLIMETERS MATTER, GO WITH OUR ROBUSTO SINCE IT IS THE NARROWEST OPTION...

    2.  WHAT PRESSURE SHOULD I RUN, AND HOW DID YOU BASE THE GENERAL PRESSURE RANGES IN THE PRODUCT DESCRIPTIONS?

       GOOD QUESTION, OUR ASSUMPTIONS ARE MAINLY BASED ON OUR PERSONAL RIDING EXPERIENCE.  THE 25PSI IS SUGGESTED FOR THE LOWER END FOR OUR 650B TIRES WHILE 30PSI IS SUGGESTED AS THE LOWER END FOR 700C.  WE’RE BOTH AROUND 175LBS, ON MODERN WIDE RIMS, AND WE’VE RIDDEN FOR A LONG TIME AND USUALLY MAKE GOOD LINE CHOICES IN THE ROUGH STUFF.
      OUR MAIN THOUGHT WITH PUTTING OUT PRESSURE RECOMMENDATIONS WAS TO DISCOURAGE PEOPLE FROM AIRING THEM TO THE STATED MAX PRESSURE THAT IS ON THE SIDEWALL WHICH IS, BELIEVE IT OR NOT, WHAT EVERYONE HAS BEEN TRAINED TO DO OVER THE YEARS BY THE BIKE INDUSTRY.  THERE ARE A LOT OF PEOPLE WHO ARE JUST GETTING INTO HIGHER VOLUME TIRES AND DON’T UNDERSTAND THE MAIN BENEFIT WHICH IS THE ABILITY TO RUN LOWER PRESSURE FOR IMPROVED GRIP, COMFORT AND SPEED.  UNFORTUNATELY, A LARGE VOLUME TIRE AIRED TOO HIGH IS VERY UNFUN SINCE THEY BOUNCE OFF EVERYTHING AND YOU’RE MORE PRONE TO FLATS FROM SIDEWALL SLASHES SINCE THE TIRE TREAD RESISTS DEFORMING OVER THE SHARP STUFF. WE’VE FOUND CHOOSING PRESSURE HAS A LOT TO DO WITH RIDER WEIGHT, RIM WIDTH, TERRAIN ETC, BUT PERSONAL HANDLING PREFERENCES, RIDING STYLE, AND EXPERIENCE ARE MASSIVE FACTORS AS WELL- WE’VE TRIED TO ENCOURAGE PEOPLE TO EXPERIMENT AND FIND WHAT WORKS BEST FOR THEM.  A LOT DEPENDS ON HOW YOU LIKE TO RIDE- ARE YOU TYPICALLY LATE ON THE BRAKES INTO CORNERS AND FIND YOURSELF IN TROUBLE, DO YOU PICK AGGRESSIVE LINE CHOICES WHEN IT GETS SUPER ROUGH, OR DO ANTICIPATE EARLY, CHOOSE SPEED CAREFULLY AND PICK DELIBERATE, OBSTACLE-FREE LINES…. IT ALSO DEPENDS ON WHAT YOU LIKE TO RIDE- ARE YOU RIDING SMOOTH, PACKED GRAVEL WITH FEW LOOSE TURNS OR ARE YOU TYPICALLY RIDING SINGLETRACK OR VERY RUGGED 2TRACK?  
      SO MANY FACTORS…I’VE KEPT LITTLE NOTES ON MY WORKBENCH OVER THE YEARS WITH PRESSURE I START OUT AT AND CONDITIONS, AND THEN WHAT I END UP WITH WHEN I FINISH A RIDE ALONG WITH WHAT TYPE OF TERRAIN I RODE. THAT WAY I HAVE A LITTLE REFERENCE IF I SPACE OUT ON WHAT TO AIR UP TO ON THE NEXT RIDE.  THE MAIN THING TO AVOID IS THE TIRE GETTING TOO SQUISHY THROUGH CORNERS WHICH IS USUALLY A PRECURSOR TO FOLDOVER- IF YOU NOTICE THE SQUISH JUST ADD A FEW PSI BACK IN.  USUALLY FOR ON-THE-FLY PRESSURE DROPS I BALLPARK IT BY DOING ONE QUICK TAP ON THE VALVE = 1PSI.  WHEN YOU GET HOME MAKE A NOTE OF WHAT FELT GOOD.
      3.  I'VE ALWAYS BEEN HARD ON TIRES AND TEND TO PUNCTURE FREQUENTLY IN MY QUEST FOR CERTIFICATION.  I REALLY WANT TO RUN THE RACE CASING, IS IT RECOMMENDED FOR BRUTES LIKE ME?
       
      OUR RACE CASING IS MORE DURABLE IN THE LARGER VOLUME SIZES, 27.5 X 2.2?? AND 650B X 47.99, IF YOU'RE RUNNING THOSE SIZES OF TIRES, YOU'LL BE SURPRISED BY THEIR DURABILITY AS LONG AS YOU RUN THE PROPER LOW PRESSURES.  THE NARROWER SIZES, 700C X 42, 38 AND ESPECIALLY THE 33S ARE FRAGILE AND REQUIRE EXTRA ATTENTION TO LINE CHOICE, PRESSURES AND MORE FREQUENT SEALANT TOP UPS.
      4. MY TIRES DON'T HOLD AIR AT INSTALL, WHAT'S WRONG WITH THEM?
      ALL TUBELESS TIRES REQUIRE THE ENTIRE TUBELESS SYSTEM TO BE RELATIVELY AIRTIGHT TO WORK AT INSTALL.  IF YOUR NEW TIRES WON'T HOLD ENOUGH PRESSURE TO RIDE AFTER A FEW HOURS THEN THERE IS SOMETHING ELSE WRONG WITH THE SYSTEM- MOST LIKELY BEAD IS NOT PROPERLY SEATED, THE VALVE STEM NUT IS LOOSE OR LEAKING INSIDE AT THE VALVE HOLE OR THE RIM TAPE MAY NEED REPLACING OR ADDITIONAL LAYERS ADDED.  AND YES, WE'VE SEEN BRAND NEW WHEELS WITH FACTORY INSTALLED RIM TAPE THAT LEAKS AND NEEDS REPLACING IMMEDIATELY.
      5.  DOES THE CASING ON YOUR TIRES WEEP SEALANT?
       
      OUR EXPERIENCE RIDING LIGHTWEIGHT CASINGS ON ALL BRANDS OF TIRES (NOT JUST OUR OWN) OVER THE YEARS IS THAT SIDEWALL WEEPING IS VERY COMMON AND CAN BE ANNOYING FOR A RIDE OR TWO ONCE IT SHOWS UP AND IT MIGHT BE NECESSARY TO ADD AIR BEFORE RIDES, BUT THAT USUALLY SOLVES IT.  THE SEALANT DOES IT’S THING AND FILLS THOSE TINY PINHOLES AND THEY HOLD AIR.  BEST PRACTICE IS TO LET THE SEALANT BEAD OUT A BIT SO THAT IT SEALS AND DON’T BOTHER WIPING IT CLEAN FOR A FEW RIDES SO IT ALL SETS UP.  IF YOU CONTINUE TO SCRUB THAT SEALANT OFF THE OUTSIDE OF THE SIDEWALL IT’LL TAKE LONGER FOR IT TO SEAL.

      THIS WEEPING CAN OCCUR FOR A NUMBER OF REASONS, GENERALLY AS THE TIRES AGE THE THIN RUBBER MEMBRANE ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE CASING WILL FATIGUE FROM THE STRESS OF FLEXING (IT’S WHY THE REAR USUALLY SHOWS THIS FIRST AS IT’S CARRYING THE BULK OF THE RIDER’S WEIGHT).  ONCE THIS HAPPENS… AND IT HAPPENS AT DIFFERENT TIMES DEPENDING ON HOW THE TIRES ARE RIDDEN AND THE THICKNESS OF THE CASING… THEY WILL WEEP OCCASIONALLY DUE TO EXTREME CHANGES IN TEMPERATURE, AFTER A GOOD SCRUBBING, OR VARIOUS OTHER BIZARRE SCENARIOS- BUT THEY ARE SAFE TO RIDE AND FRESH SEALANT INSTALL USUALLY FIXES IT.

      EVERY SEALANT BRAND ON THE MARKET RECOMMENDS FRESH SEALANT ADDED TO THE SYSTEM EVERY 1-3MONTHS- THE LIQUID COMPONENT EVAPORATES DEPENDING ON WEATHER CONDITIONS, AMOUNT RIDDEN (IF YOU PUNCTURE A LOT) ETC.ETC….  AND THIN CASING TIRES OFTEN GO DRY FASTER.
       
      6.  WHEN I RECEIVED MY RACE OR JFF TIRES AND INSTALLED THEM THEY HAD A LITTLE BIT OF WEEPING FROM PINHOLES ON THE SIDEWALLS, IS THIS NORMAL? 
      YES, ONE OF THE INGREDIENTS COMMON IN ALL TUBELESS SEALANTS IS A PH ADJUSTER WHICH KEEPS THE LATEX FROM COAGULATING ON THE SHELF.  ONCE THE SEALANT IS INSTALLED IT TENDS TO EVAPORATE THROUGH THE CASING AND IS NOTICEABLE AS A LITTLE WEEPING.  OUR JFF AND RACE CASINGS ARE VERY THIN AND THIS CAN BE MORE NOTICEABLE THAN ON THICKER SIDEWALLED TIRES YOU'RE USED TO.  THESE PINHOLES SEAL AFTER ONE RIDE AND ARE NOT AN ISSUE ALTHOUGH MOST SEALANT BRANDS RECOMMEND YOU TOP UP A LITTLE BIT OF SEALANT AFTER THAT FIRST RIDE.  WE ENCOURAGE YOU TO EXPLORE THE SEALANT FAQS OR FORUMS REGARDING LIGHT CASING TIRES FOR MORE DETAILED INFO OR TO NERD OUT. 

       
       

      MOUNTING INSTRUCTIONS

      COMING SOON...

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      RETURNS 

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